The fourth day of the fashion extravaganza had the designers showcasing handloom and textiles in a fun and edgy avatar with lots of inspired prints and patterns. Have a look.
Bhanuni by Jyoti
From long flowing gowns to structured skirts with crop tops, designer Jyoti Sharma under the label ‘Bhanuni’ showcased the beautiful collection for the next spring summer season. Layered cuts on the hems and jewel zardosi detailing on the yoke of the outfits added the bling touch to the creations. Evening dresses, umbrella dress with blue designed neckline, straight cut gowns in red and gold, short evening dress in blue, short skirts with crochet top were some of the designs and one that really stood out among all was a 3D stiff ruffled body-fitted dress. Floral artwork, intricate cut work and surface textures on the fabric brought out the detailing.
The young designer, Josh Goraya put together a graphical play on his collection in the simplest of silhouettes and sleekness. With a sense of craftsmanship, he chose light-weight line cotton and georgette for women’s line of tunics and dresses while blended heavy weight-linen for men’s collection that comprised jackets and suits. The colour palette had the range of hues like red, green, yellow and blue besides off whites and creams being the dominant.
In 2013, Josh Goraya won the fifth season of India’s biggest design competition ‘Let’s Design’, presented by Cotton Council International and FDCI.
The collection imbibed the prints and patterns of drops.
In his debut collection showcase at WLIFW SS’15, designer Vivek Karunakaran took inspiration from the Australian tribal prints in vibrant colours. He worked more around bottoms like presented palazzos, pleated palazzos, dhoti pants, long fuller printed skirt, harem pants teamed with shirts, crop tops and jackets. As for the colours, monochrome ruled with the versatility of the prints moving on to yellows, red and blue.
Beat the fashion with blue, grey and white seemed to be a style statement for next spring summer season by the designer! As Mrinalini’s collection had a heavy dose of different shades of blue, with which she played on myriad of structured and androgyny yet feminine silhouettes. Classic Indian stripes on the outfits gave the old-school look to the collection. Fabrics were tattered and textured to give an old and worn out look. Silhouettes ranged from palazzos, long tunics, jackets, see-through dresses worn over shorts and sports bra with jacket, divider skirt with see through top.
In his spring summer 2015 collection titled ‘Dhoop Chaun’, designer Sahil Kochhar brought the age-old craft of paper cutting of Mathura called ‘Sanjhi Craft’ alive with 3D floral motifs done in 3D hand cut petal embroidery, while corrugated tape fabric gave shape to Sanjhi stencil cut work. Silk floss chain stitch embroidery brought alive the ornamental Sanjhi patterns. The colour palette ranged from yellow, orange and blue combined with beige, red, gold and pewter done in 3D hand embroideries. Sweeping gowns held the charm for the ladies while structured jackets with oversized trenches exuded masculinity on the runway for men.
431-88 by Shweta Kapur
Designer Shweta Kapur, known for bringing luxury sportswear into the forefront, present monochromatic story for the next spring summer season on the runway! ‘Poolside Tailoring’ as the collection was titled, had structured silhouettes juxtaposed with the soft drapes. Deep V necklines as the neck design became prominent as the upcoming trend.
Dev r Nil
Designer duo gave an ode to the work of poet Rabindranath Tagore by using his original word script prints on the outfits of their spring summer 2015 collection. Besides, pebbles had also been main pattern of their prints. Moroccan mosaic patterns, textures, embroideries, mirror work, bead work, thread embroidery pleating, fabric crushing on the dresses added the traditional touch to the modern outfits like saree, palazzo with tunic, d-shape tunic, long jackets, trouser, skirt blouse and floral printed swimwear jacket. Handwoven ikkats were done on silk, chiffon and georgettes while the fabrics and patterns came together in harmony. The colour palette had the hues of beige, khaki, red, water and sky blue, orange and pink.
She presented the collection having a very raw appeal to the outfits with the oodles of elegance! Her dominant hues were black, white, grey and blue and soon the check, stripes, shades, abstract soft prints took over the designs. Urvashi Kaur had used Indian techniques like block prints, tie-dye matka, batik, shibori on the fabrics like cotton, khai, sheer linen for the next summer season. Most of the dresses and sarees were styled with camo obi belt. Some of our favourite pieces were denim crossover over all, deconstructed short dress, cowled salwar, khadi draped skirt with batik bikini, mandarin waistcoat, crop top with organic cotton saree, diagonal wrap shirt with denim pencil skirt with denim obi belt, tent top with over blown sleeves, flounced skirt, wrap jacket with exaggerated lapel and panelled dhoti pant.
Rabani & Rakha
Rabani & Rakha’s collection for the spring summer 2015 season was more of festive with the range of gowns, lehengas, jackets, lace catsuits with drapes, sarees, dresses and intriguing fusions using the feminine fabrics like lace, tulle, sheer brocades along with opulent embroideries. Ivory with gold and sun kissed peach dominated the hues.
His collection mainly consisted evening wear like peplum blouses worn with pencil silhouettes, palazzos, fishtail gowns, sheath and column dresses, fitted trousers with dressy shirts and pleated skirts. The creations also had corset silhouettes moderated down with sheer jackets while thread embroidery on net fabric was the one to look out for on the outfits. The colour story was mainly black, brown, golden, ivory, white and midnight blue!
From denims to georgettes, designer Raakesh Agarwal’s outfits were all about rugged and embroidered denim pants, shorts to jumpsuits and gowns with a bit of artistic detailing. No doubt that the silhouettes were kept structured yet flowy! Even the colour story moved from blues to sunshine!
Vineet Bahl ‘Premier’
Designer Vineet Bahl dedicated his spring summer 2015 collection to ‘Malhaar’, which is a celebration of arrival of monsoon. He translated his inspiration on the outfits with the help of surface detailing with generous use of thread work, which were further accented with pearls, glass beads, zari, naqsh, muqaish, sequin and mirror work. Silhouettes ranged from lehenga with choli and short jacket worn over, saree, shararas with tunic, ghararas, anarkali, achkans with palazzos made on the fabrics like banarasi silk, banarasi dupion and silk khaddi. V neckline was again highlighted as the major trend for the coming season.
Known for his simplistic silhouettes with the intricacy of the cuts, this time around designer Wendell Rodricks chose to work on the textiles under the ministry of textiles, government of India. He took inspiration from the health benefits of yoga and named his collection ‘Yoga Calm’. He only used pristine white colour to express his fashion story for the next spring summer season. Models dashed down the runway in fitted long sleeve shirt, shift dress with line and square pintucks, 60’s trouser with silver cotton belt, bias cut dress with concentric square cut outs, line dress with double layered peplum, while for men were the open front beach shirt with lycra swimming brief, open front sherwani over linen kurta, trouser with skirt wrap layer, short with lungi. The designer chose to explore Kerala cotton weave and combined it with other fabrics like linen, georgette, satin silk cotton. And juxtaposition of silver weaves on the dress gave an edge to the collection.
Which one collection you like the most on Day 4?
If you have missed out on reading what happened on Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3, read them now to know more about the colours and textures that were used and which designers were present on each of the days.